Post. You tighten it too much and it cracks the neck. No problem. "turning right" will tighten the rod and bring the strings closer to … The new nut gets a dab of petroleum jelly. Let it set for an hour then remove nut. Some short blasts of canned air remove any debris that’s in the access cavity. I would like a little more. If a truss rod nut is difficult to turn I lubricate the threads before preceding. That’s major surgery! It takes a 4 mm hex wrench but simply wont budge . HELP ! Joined Feb 22, 2014 Messages 3 Reaction score 0. It may take a day or two but you should be able to get the twelfth fret adjusted properly IF the truss rod is functioning. Let sit … I have already brought the neck to a guitar tech who told me that the only options he know of are to 1) separate fretboard from neck, or 2) drill a hole from the underside of the neck into the truss rod cavity so as to gain access to the area. Remove the truss rod cover if necessary. Using a cotton bud, zap the truss rod nut with a dab of 3in1 oil or WD40 and leave it to stand overnight. That small amout of oil will not harm the wood. If it's a newer 2-way rod after a bit where it spins without resistance it will start to actively push the neck in a forward bow. Once enough of the rod was sticking out of the headstock, I was able to grab it and slide it out the rest of the way. When a neck remains in a back bowed state with no string tension (and the rod completely loose) I may choose to plane the neck. Now that I can get a grip on it, I can back the nut out to replace it. Locate the truss rod adjustment nut. A small brush gets rid of any crud on the threads. Yikes! My truss rod seems to be stuck. Step 2. Bad news: a stripped truss rod nut. A good applicator is a Q-tip soaked in oil a dabbed on the nut and truss rod threads. When making adjustments to older instruments it is advisable to lubricate the nut with graphite to prevent seizure and damage. Don't make a new nut just to fix a low slot—fill it! 2008-10-30T02:47. The adjusting nut on this truss rod is a removable one that screws onto the rod. Completely loosen the truss rod. Most are welded directly on it, which is why it's important to not strip the head of the nut. This makes it smoother-working.The new nut goes on easily, with the proper 4mm wrench. The flat sides of the hex socket are rounded over, so a correctly-sized wrench can’t get a grip. Truss rods can feel stuck because of rust on the threads, they’ve hit the end of the threads, or there is damage to the truss rod. Over on the Les Paul Forum there is a thread regarding "frozen" or "jammed' truss rods. Possible Causes The neck (wood) is lax and does not resist string tension adequately The neck has taken a set and moves very little with or without string tension (warping) Heavy tension has caused excessive upward bow that can not be removed with a truss rod adjustment Poor quality truss rod This guitar is ready to go, without pricey repairs. It takes an allen wrench to adjust the truss rod. The two parts are welded together at this end. It's better than just dropping the oil directly in the hole for controlling where it goes inside. Now that I had access to the truss rod anchor, I removed it was able to tap the truss rod out through the headstock with a hammer and a long steel rod. Removing most truss rods requires removal of the fingerboard, which in turn, requires a complete refret and finish work. help with stuck truss rod. Hello there, Im new here. Most are welded directly on it, which is why it's important to not strip the head of the nut. After a quick tweak, the neck is adjusted perfectly straight. I did a search here and found some info, but I need some more tips. Somebody’s been using the wrong size wrench on it, and its hex socket is stripped. The String Action Gauge is your pocket "Swiss Army Ruler" for setting up every stringed instrument. The solution: That’s major surgery! It saves a lot of time that would have been spent on expensive repairs. This part can wear as all suspension parts do allowing the front tire to move right or left when the brake are used. Shaped, inlaid, fretted and finished—feels and plays great! Adjust relief. Despite the fact that, until recently, a major instrument manufacturing company included information to the contrary in their support materials, a truss rod is not for adjusting action. The flat sides of the hex socket are rounded over, so a correctly-sized wrench can’t get a grip. If this truss rod had a welded-on, non-replaceable nut, I could adjust it with the Gripper even though I can’t remove it. I would remove the neck from the body and gently push the neck the way you want it to move. Thread starter Razazel; Start date Feb 22, 2014; R. Razazel Junior Member. This causes the truss rod to be effectively over-tightened because the tension from the strings has been removed. Here's the butt end of the trussrod showing the welding. I can remove the nut completely with no change to the relief. I would would remove the strings and neck from the body. I can not get it to turn . Just got this Epiphone today. Clamp the neck to pull it straight (or into a slight backbow) and tighten the adjusting nut. It grips, so you can turn the nut like normal. Ideally, loosening the truss rod should allow the strings to pull it upward and create more relief in the neck. You may hear a clicking sound when attempting to tighten a broken truss rod, others may spin freely, offering little to no resistance. Some older, untouched instruments may also show resistance when the threads between the rod and nut corrode. Determine the force in member BD of the truss, and state if the member is in tension or compression. Normal truss rod adjustments do not require hiring a strong man to turn the wrench. Pull off the fretboard and replace the rod? Determine the forces in members AB and CB of the truss, and state if the members are in tension or compression. If you paid by credit card, put a dispute in with the card company. This was a standard truss rod, but if it had been a rod with an adjusting nut that’s permanently attached, the problem would have been particularly devastating. Again, clockwise a.k.a. You tighten it too much and it cracks the neck. I would like a little more. One little trick you can try is, take the adjuster nut off completely and slip 2 or 3 flat washers on the truss rod. If I suspected a ‘stuck’ rod, I’d probably lock two nuts together so the rod could be torqued in both directions to loosen it. The neck has a pretty serious backbow. I can remove the nut completely with no change to the relief. Somebody’s been using the wrong size wrench on it, and its hex socket is stripped. Learn About Truss Rod Installation + Repair, Find the proper fret position with the official Stewart-MacDonald Fret Calculator, Stewart-MacDonald is PCI compliant and validated for secure e-commerce. (You get extra credit for being such a hard worker, though.) The neck has a pretty serious backbow. Step 3. You loosen it too far and the relief becomes too great and/or the rod rattles. The round piece is the passive rod, which is threaded at the other end for the nut. (You get extra credit for being such a hard worker, though.). The improved version of the classic Fender Strat Bridge. Stand the guitar upright, put as small a drop of light or machine oil on the end of your truss rod wrench as you're able. You’ve probably seen this lots of times before. In this situation a single action truss rod can offer no help. I did a search here and found some info, but I need some more tips. If you have the truss rod tightened to the point to where it stops and remove the strings, the neck will have a severe back-bow. The flat sides of the hex socket are rounded over, so a correctly-sized wrench can’t get a grip. The risks when adjusting a truss rod are: The nut is stuck or you over-tighten and snap/round it off. Not a kit, this guitar is finished, assembled and wired! A maxed out truss rod may continue to turn but in actuality it may merely be compressing the wood behind the truss rod nut. If it gets caught, it will not release and the neck will keep the backbow. Epiphone has authorized "warranty centers" in many areas, if you decide to (or have to) go that route. If the rod is still stuck, ask someone to compress it for you while you pull down on it. I use the Gripper truss rod wrench. Now we offer a full set of them. I would like to see the Gotoh one where there is a small hole in the side of the neck heel for adjustment because that to me makes the most sense but since manufacturers are cheapskates it is most likely more expensive than what they already use. The new nut gets a dab of petroleum jelly. Feel inside the sound hole underneath the top frets to find it. (I forget which orientation the rod is on that bass.) You can apply some heat by heating the allen wrench some with a propane torch, then carefully insert it through the access hole and onto the nut. Copyright © Fret Not Guitar Repair Inc. I have my '61 sg strung with 10-46 strings and the neck is almost straight, maybe .002" of relief. I learned the hard way, if your truss rod is … Pop Quiz! This was not the case with this Les Paul – the truss rod nut turned easily, yet the truss rod still snapped in half. It's hard to pour over $300 into a repair only to find it will be required again in another year or two. A truss rod is NOT for adjusting action. The cost of replacing truss rods will almost always exceed $500. Thanks And that’s not the worst part: the truss rod needs loosening, but the adjusting nut is a mess. The truss rod is as tight as it will go and the neck still has way too much relief in it. In comes a set-neck style guitar, the problem being a truss rod doing a bit of rattling. In that case, the guitar’s owner just needs to keep a Gripper wrench in the guitar’s case and he’ll be all set. When adjusting truss rods on vintage or problematic guitars I prefer to lubricate the threads with graphite to help prevent thread seizure in the future. After a quick tweak, the neck is adjusted perfectly straight. Determine the force in member AD of the truss, and state if the member is in tension or compression. The adjusting nut on a 2-way truss rod isn't threaded onto the shaft. We introduced this wrench last year, and it’s a hit. Truss rods can break if too much tension is placed on an already maxed out truss rod so caution is warranted. Loosening A Truss Rod If a neck is too flat or backbowing, loosening the truss will add relief. Visually inspect the truss rod threads and the threads on the nut. If, however, the neck shows itself to be weak and spongy, satisfactory results may not be obtainable using this method. This makes it smoother-working.The new nut goes on easily, with the proper 4mm wrench. The truss rod is component of a guitar or other stringed instruments that stabilizes the lengthwise forward curvature (also called relief), of the neck.Usually it is a steel bar or rod that runs inside the neck, beneath the fingerboard. First, the bad news: This truss rod nut is stripped, so the rod won’t adjust. Bit by bit. The String Action Gauge is your pocket "Swiss Army Ruler" for setting up every stringed instrument. This was a standard truss rod, but if it had been a rod with an adjusting nut that’s permanently attached, the problem would have been particularly devastating. Uh-oh In most cases, this is a biggy. When the truss rod nut is not welded to the rod (like those used on two way truss rods), the nut is backed out and replaced. In that case, the guitar’s owner just needs to keep a Gripper wrench in the guitar’s case and he’ll be all set. Note the grinding marks. Sometimes you get lucky and the neck will still be playable and have acceptable relief even with a broken truss rod. This is a situation that requires physical examination to determine the best course of action. I am more inclined to believe improvement is possible when the instrument is older and the neck has settled. Despite the fact there is information around the web telling readers to adjust their truss rod to raise or lower action, a truss rod is not for adjusting action. I may also remove string tension to reduce resistance and in some situations, clamp the neck in a slightly back bowed state prior to tightening the nut. Pull off the fretboard and replace the rod? My truss rod seems to be stuck. The truss rod nut on this type of Strat is recessed into the neck and surrounded by wood (Photo 1), so when the socket that holds the truss rod tool is stripped out, you only have two options: perform major surgery to remove the stripped nut and replace it with a new one, or buy a replacement neck. If you have the truss rod tightened to the point to where it stops and remove the strings, the neck will have a severe back-bow. This is typically positioned on the inside of the guitar’s heel. The Gripper has a tip that’s small enough to fit inside the messed-up nut, then it tapers out wider to grip even a rounded-out hex socket. Check out Dan Erlewine’s video demo! Then try again, but don't force anything as the next step would be nut release spray (Again applied using a cotton bud) and a little waiting time. The truss rod is actually compressing the neck exerting pressure against the backside of the neck which causes it to bend backwards. I use the Gripper truss rod wrench. Site Map | Privacy, The neck (wood) is lax and does not resist string tension adequately, The neck has taken a set and moves very little with or without string tension (warping), Heavy tension has caused excessive upward bow that can not be removed with a truss rod adjustment. In some instances where the adjuster nut is bottoming on the threads, this will give you a little extra room for adjustment when trying to fix a positive bow. may be foreign material or rust on the rod. I don't understand the appeal of the wheel type truss rod either. Check out Dan Erlewine’s video demo! If this truss rod had a welded-on, non-replaceable nut, I could adjust it with the Gripper even though I can’t remove it. Planeing straightens the fingerboard and larger fret tangs create additional compression and stiffness the neck. Replacement nuts are cheap if you need a new one. And that’s not the worst part: the truss rod needs loosening, but the adjusting nut is a mess. And that’s not the worst part: the truss rod needs loosening, but the adjusting nut is a mess. Now we offer a full set of them. This was an interesting project for the month. It saves a lot of time that would have been spent on expensive repairs. This guitar is ready to go, without pricey repairs. Conversely, if notes at the twelfth fret are flat loosen the truss rod a quarter turn. Somebody’s been using the wrong size wrench on it, and its hex socket is stripped. (burn problems) Now, given that I'd be reluctant to use a hot soldering iron anywhere near my Martin … We introduced this wrench last year, and it’s a hit. Only the first and last are permanent. The heel is the joint where the neck meets the body. The neck has a pretty serious backbow. Back out the nut. I don't want to strip the adjustment nut . I have my '61 sg strung with 10-46 strings and the neck is almost straight, maybe .002" of relief. I’m checking out this Tele from a pawnshop to see if my buddy got a good deal on it. As with other neck issues, this is a situation that must be evaluated. The Gripper has a tip that’s small enough to fit inside the messed-up nut, then it tapers out wider to grip even a rounded-out hex socket. Pound a screwdriver into the nut, and hope it jams tight enough that you can back the nut out? I took my Ibanez pf15 acoustic to a guitar center to have the action adjusted (20 bucks...) when I first started playing a few years ago. You’ve probably seen this lots of times before. I use heat shrink tubing all along the truss rod except the parts that are exposed. Despite the fact that, until recently, a major instrument manufacturing company included information to the contrary in their support materials, a truss rod is not for adjusting action. Put a rigid bar over the fretboard, sitting up on spacers (notched to fit over the strings). But its bit weird... Any ideas? When the neck is only slightly back bowed or simply dead flat, using heavier gauge strings may create just enough tension to pull then neck straight or increase the relief. This was a very rare Overture Tricera bass that I hadn't had out in about 2 years. Fender's most popular pick shape in different materials. There has developed a controversy regarding the use of oils on the truss rod nut to free things up (destroys the wood fiber) or the use of a soldering iron to expand, by heat, the rod nut. The flat sides of the hex socket are rounded over, so a correctly-sized wrench can’t get a grip. A small brush gets rid of any crud on the threads. It just spins in the hole. Now that I can get a grip on it, I can back the nut out to replace it. Unfortunately some necks can actually back bow, even with the truss rod completely loose and the instrument tuned to pitch. The risks when adjusting a truss rod are: The nut is stuck or you over-tighten and snap/round it off. The truss rod nut on this type of Strat is recessed into the neck and surrounded by wood (Photo 1), so when the socket that holds the truss rod tool is stripped out, you only have two options: perform major surgery to remove the stripped nut and replace … Turns out that both the rod and the truss rod nut were suspect: it appears that the rod was corroded, and the nut had cross threaded, and it was just the tiniest bit of pressure caused it to break. I used ballistol just the other day on a stuck truss rod, not uncommon here in super humid Florida. Insert oiled end into adjustment hole. How would you handle this? This causes the truss rod to be effectively over-tightened because the tension from the strings has been removed. Oct 30, 2008 #1. It just spins in the hole. Set theta = 30 ?. The adjusting nut on this truss rod is a removable one that screws onto the rod. Somebody’s been using the wrong size wrench on it, and its hex socket is stripped. If you see no change in neck relief when tightening the truss rod it's best to stop and seek professional advice. Some are non-adjustable, but most modern truss rods have a nut at one or both ends that adjusts its tension. I am not sure what type of rod is in it, but it has the hex cap screw, like a … Take it to a professional!) Use your Ovation truss rod key to tighten or loosen the truss rod and thus, the neck. I always use this old carpenter's level.